When in Rome, there’s no shortage of culinary outposts. But one neighbourhood in particular is known for serving up the city’s best traditional dishes. Monocle’s Lily Austin takes us for a stroll around Testaccio. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Hello and welcome to Food Neighbourhoods on Monocle Radio.
I'm Monica Lillis and once again we're taking you to the places locals love for their food and drink.
When in Rome, there's no shortage of culinary outposts, but one neighbour in particular is known for serving up the city's best traditional dishes.
Here, Monaco's Lily Austin takes us for a stroll around Testaccio.
Rome is not a city known for bad food.
Between the eateries offering fried delights and the family run trattoria hosted by the archetypal waiter of a certain age, you really have to work at it to find a disappointing meal.
But there is one neighbourhood that is particularly notable, particularly among Romans themselves, who generally believe it to have the best typical Roman food in the whole city.
Welcome to Testaccio.
Located to the south on the slopes of Rome's seventh hill, Colle Aventino, this hip neighbourhood is a little further out from the main tourist traps and so far has been spared the throngs of crowds.
But if you're Roman, you know Testaccio.
For those less familiar, you found it when you spot a towering statue of a bull flanked by a winged infant, Oputo in Italian, which stand guard atop the entrance to the matatuio, or slaughterhouse.
Up until its closure in the 1970s, this was what Testaccio was best known for, bringing freshly prepared meat to Rome's butchers and restaurants.
The matatuyo may no longer be operational, but fresh produce still fills Testaccio.
The beating heart of the neighbourhood is Macato di Testaccio, or the Red Market as it's known to locals.
The large covered square is a labyrinth of stalls selling everything from pottery to footwear.
But its culinary offerings are what we're here for.
Set aside a couple of hours for wandering around the lots and tasting Roman favourites.
Huge meatballs sprinkled with pistachio, baccala, that's salted cod, fried chicory with garlic, and my favourite, caciofa alla Romana.
That's artichokes cooked in a pan with oil, mint and a little water.
When midday rolls around, pull up a chair at La Cucina Ricciovata, the rediscovered kitchen, and ask for a selection of cheeses to go with a glass of natural wine.